Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Watching what We Eat


Cooking shows have never been quite as popular in the U.S. as they are now. It seems as though nearly everybody today has an opinion as to who the greatest celebrity chef is.

At the same time, modern U.S. Americans have adapted to a fast-food-intensive culinary tradition. If American’s really hate working in the kitchen so badly, why do they love to watch others do it?

In order to examine the American fascination with food television, I’ve identified 3 subtypes of food shows: 1) the classic cooking demonstration, 2) the food/travel memoir, and 3) the reality/competition show. Though each of these subtypes celebrate food and cooking, they do so in very different ways, and attract very different viewers. In order to understand the American fascination with food television, we have to understand what each subtype offers its viewers.

I’ll start with the traditional food demonstration show. This is the style of cooking show that was pioneered by Julia Childs, and is still well executed by celebrity chefs such as Ina Garten and Giada De Laurentiis. Typically, in these shows, the chef introduces a list of recipe and then shows viewers how to execute the menu step-by-step. This type of cooking show is for viewers who enjoy cooking and want to learn new recipes or techniques, however, one can look at the Food Network program schedule and see that the traditional food demonstration show is falling out of favor with audiences.

It seems likely that the recent decrease in the popularity of these shows is an indicator of a nation-wide lack of interest in cooking. If people aren’t tuning into the Food Network to learn about cooking, then what are they watching?

Some people are more interested in shows about travel, where they can witness the sights and cultures of faraway lands through the lens of a camera. These shows, like Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations and Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre Foods, feed the eyes of viewers, especially. Essentially, a host will visit a different town, city, or country each episode, and go about finding the best and most quintessential foods that the region has to offer. They may also take part in different cultural rituals or pastimes, giving viewers an in-depth look at the way others live.

These shows are, in my opinion, the most genuine celebration of food because they generally attempt to emphasize, rather than disguise or adulterate, the impact of culinary traditions throughout the world. These shows foster a growing appreciation for home-cooked food in the U.S. by allowing viewers to see another person pouring their love and labor into a dish--finding enjoyment in creating something to feed friends and family. Viewers might see the food that others are making in their homes, and think, “Hey, I should fire up my own stove.” Unfortunately, I don’t think many viewers act on that impulse. It takes too long... too expensive... Burger King, yadda yadda yadda.

Once again, most people aren’t watching television in an attempt to learn or, god forbid, to better themselves. When we’re watching television, that’s all we’re doing: watching. A great big spread of food is a wonderful visual spectacle, and ever-hungry Americans are the perfect spectators. While these shows are good for getting stomachs rumbling, I don’t think they give viewers much impetus to cook for themselves, especially as half the meals consumed on these shows are made in restaurants.

Most recently, food television has taken on an entirely new meaning with the creation of reality kitchen shows and cooking competition. While the trend began with some high-quality shows such as Iron Chef and Kitchen Nightmares, it has expanded into a seemingly uncontrollable abomination. These shows, though built on the premise of cooking, are really about drama--the golden idol of U.S. television networks.

There is a great deal of excitement to be found in the kitchen, and network executives are constantly dreaming up ways to exploit it. Thus, we see competition shows reaching farther to put chefs in extreme conditions, and reality shows like the U.S. version of Kitchen Nightmares, which downplays the food completely and instead shows more footage of Gordon Ramsay arguing with restaurant owners. These shows are probably the most popular on the Food Network, and unfortunately, they’re no more about food or cooking than Jersey Shore is.

It’s sad to see that the growing American interest in food television really has so little to do with the food. I worry that commercializing and adulterating  the subject of cooking in the way that Food Network does will only increase the disconnect that Americans feel with their culinary traditions. Food is an object of the real world--to be experienced by all of the senses. We should be careful, as a society, not to let food become a passive experience

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