In my experience, U.S. Americans are generally considered to be particularly well-fed. For anyone with a little money and a means of getting from point A to B, “hot” food can be instantaneously obtained at any time of day from one of the hundreds of local fast food restaurants. Gigantic grocery stores provide every food item imaginable all in one place, and in infinite quantities. One would imagine that amidst such abundance, hunger and malnutrition would be among the least of our worries; however, one could argue that extreme abundance has had some negative consequences in the U.S.
Consider the following: each McDonald’s spicy McChicken patty contains over twenty different ingredients, many of which are completely synthetic. The entire sandwich provides about 14 grams of protein, 16 grams of fat, 40 grams of carbs, and 360 calories. The sandwich contains only trace amounts of three essential vitamins and minerals: Calcium, Iron, and Vitamin C. Priced at only $1, the spicy McChicken was once a staple of my diet. I would go through little “mcphases” a few times a month, sometimes replacing 4-6 meals a week with McChickens and french fries. Even though the food I was eating made me feel full, the reality is that up to six of the meals I ate each were almost completely devoid of nutrients.
The western diet is one of extreme luxury. Many Americans enjoy enough affluence that they can eat whatever they choose. However, due to the fast-paced lifestyle to which most of us are accustomed, our choice is often to eat the quickest meal available. The result is that several times a week, we pick up our “food” from the comfort of our vehicles and proceed to fill our stomachs with empty calories.
Why, with such a variety of ingredients at our fingertips, do Americans choose to eat crap? Why do we shy away from the tradition of buying and cooking whole foods? One possible explanation is that the highly individualistic nature of U.S. Society discourages families from taking the time to dine together. In the average U.S. family, it is common for both husband and wife to pursue careers, as well as for children to participate in several after-school activities. Everyone is doing their own thing, which is why it’s also common for family members to have different eating schedules. Slowly, feeding one’s family becomes less of an event and more of a task. Rather than spend time planning and preparing a meal, we always have the option of driving around the corner and receiving instant gratification, so we do it.
Unfortunately, our fast-food obsession comes with consequences. Each time we decide to forego the task of preparing our own food, we are contributing to the dissolution of age-old culinary traditions. We know that enculturation is a learning process, so If the elder generations aren’t available to pass down their knowledge of recipes and cooking techniques, we can only expect future generations to become less and less concerned with autonomous dining.
As quick food continues to alter our cultural reality, the identification of healthy food is becoming a profoundly convoluted task. Each year, scientists declare that they’ve isolated the real culprit behind America’s expanding waistline. Sometimes it’s carbohydrates, sometimes saturated fats, sometimes sodium. Or, maybe its always bologna.
Regardless of the validity of each year’s health claims, food manufacturers take full advantage of the frenzy these claims whip up amongst consumers. They’ll put a big sticker reading “reduced sodium” on a box of potato chips, and interpreting this as a sign that said chips are a healthy snack. In his article, “Unhappy Meals,” Michael Pollan does a good job of summing up this relationship: “...if you’re concerned about your health, you should probably avoid food products that make health claims. Why? Because a health claim on a food product is a good indication that it’s not really food, and food is what you want to eat.”
When Pollan talks about “food,” he is referring specifically to whole fruits, vegetables, and animal proteins in their (relatively) unadulterated form. He explains that many essential nutrients contained in natural foods are only accessible to the human body when they are consumed in their natural state.
Pollan suggests that Americans dislike buying whole foods because they usually lack the nutritional labels that we all love to read so much. Without a scientific breakdown of an avocado’s contents, how can one determine whether it is truly “healthy?” I, on the other hand, am compelled to believe that fast-food culture is at the root of America’s nutritional problems. We must take care to preserve our culinary traditions by cooking our own food and sharing our knowledge of the culinary arts with others. It may never again be a necessity for us to work with whole foods, but we must do everything we can to prevent that tradition from fading out of memory.
Thursday, September 27, 2012
Wednesday, September 26, 2012
Eat Fresh at Green Vegetarian Cuisine
Today’s fast food culture may have the tendency of trapping people in a “burger-rut.” However, Chris and Mike Behrend, co-owners of Green Vegetarian Cuisine, are working hard to provide fresh and flavorful options for people interested in healthy dining.
Green Cuisine’s original downtown location enjoyed such success that they were able to open a new location at the Alon shopping center on N.W. Military Dr in 2011.
“Our new restaurant has been a great success,” said Behrend. “We’ve at least doubled our business.” Green Cuisine’s new location serves the same high-quality food as their restaurant downtown, and is located on the other side of town, where they can serve vegetarian food to a whole new demographic.
Green cuisine serves vegetarian renditions of several classic American comfort foods, substituting textured vegetable protein (TVP) for meat, when appropriate. I tried their signature “Neatloaf,” a novel recreation of the classic meatloaf, composed of TVP, breadcrumbs, onions, and bell peppers and topped with a tangy tomato sauce. The texture of the veggie-loaf is surprisingly similar to that of an actual meatloaf; it is dense and filling, and served next to a mound of mashed potatoes, it is a great dish to accompany a cool Fall evening.
Be advised, however, that meat substitutes are not for everyone. Green Cuisine succeeds in building complex flavor profiles with their vegetable products, but one simply can’t recreate the flavor and unctuousness of real meat. The “Neatloaf,” however, is savory in its own right: the dish is rich and nutty, the mixture of different vegetables lend a powerful sense of umami to the dish. The dish’s only real downfall was an excessive use of tomato sauce, which had the tendency to mask the dishes subtler flavors.
If you’re not a fan of meat substitutes, Green Cuisine offers a variety of other meatless alternatives, including grain salads, fruit salads, quesadillas, and several entrees featuring eggplant and mushrooms. These foods are packed with essential vitamins, proteins and most importantly, flavor. I sampled the Eggplant Parmesan, a delectable fried eggplant served over spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce and parmesan cheese. You truly won’t miss the meat in this dish. The huge slices of hearty eggplant are seasoned and pan-fried to perfection, and they work with a deep and zesty tomato sauce to create a perfect harmony of flavor. I’d recommend this dish to any first timers at Green Cuisine.
I would not, however, recommend the Falafel Plate, which is an uninspiring dish to say the least. It’s a shame that Green Cuisine offers a rather bland and disappointing rendition of the classic fried chickpea patty which is a staple of vegetarian cuisine. The falafel was seemingly unseasoned, and had no flavor, save that of the fried breading. I ordered their Raw Pecan Hummus along with the falafel, with which I was able to restore some flavor to the sad little chickpea patties. The hummus was complex and delicious. Though the hummus was still a bit underseasoned for my palate, raw pecans gave it a distinctive taste and texture.
Green Vegetarian Cuisine offers a welcome change from monotonous, meat-based menus at affordable prices. Next time you feel like eating something fresh and flavorful, make your way out to one of their restaurants. The original Green Cuisine is located downtown, at 1017 N. Flores, and their new location is in the Alon shopping center, at 10003 N.W. Military. For menus or additional information visit their website at <http://greensanantonio.com/>.
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
Vegetarian Cuisine at the CIA
As I approached the Culinary Institute of America kitchen in San Antonio for my first official cooking lesson, I couldn’t help feeling a bit of apprehension amidst my boiling anticipation. My worry wasn’t that I wouldn’t be able to “stand the heat” of the CIA kitchen (this was, after all, a class for amatuer chefs), but rather that I wouldn’t be able to stand the food.
The class which I was attending was called, simply: Vegetarian Cuisine. The name brought forth images of grilled tofu and bean burgers, and made me cringe as I relived the days when I would watch my sister with pity as she tried to enjoy the different vegetarian “meals” she confined herself to. I still don’t know why she decided to turn veg-head; she never preached about healthy living or animal cruelty, but simply claimed an aversion to meat (my guess is that some PETA pamphlet-pusher got to her.) She refrained from eating meat for 4 years, and then as abruptly as she’d stopped, she began to call herself a carnivore once more.
It wasn’t only the menu that troubled me, it was the crowd that the menu was likely to attract. I must admit that I harbor some level of bias against vegetarians, or rather, vegetarian fanatics. The fanatics, in my opinion, are the ones trying to mobilize a dietary lifestyle into a “movement.” (i.e. PETA pamphlet pushers). In my experience, this subtype is made up of young “hipsters” or rebels whose allegiance to vegetarianism relies solely on whether its “in” or not.
I remember the first time I attended the Van’s Warped Tour in 2004: as my friends and I were waiting in line at the front gates, a slew of pamphlet pushing pod-people thrust their trifolds upon us. They’ve been known to show up at several large events, confronting optimistic crowds with images rotting cow carcasses and action-shots of chicken debeakings. I say to these vegetarian fanatics the same thing I say to door-to-door evangelists: I sincerely respect your personal beliefs and practices, but get off of my porch!
Despite any misgivings, I was commited to see how the C.I.A. does vegetarian cuisine, and as I was a bit early, I decided to get into the proper mood by shopping for produce at the Pearl Farmers Market, which is conveniently situated directly behind the Culinary Institute on Saturday mornings. Since I arrived just before the opening bell, I had the opportunity to scope out several stalls and find the best looking produce so I’d know where to look when the vendors began selling. I found some pristine zucchini squash and perfect little grilling onions at one stall, some bright green jalapenos at another, and at yet another stall I found some portabellas as big as my head.
Now, with veggies in my hands and on my brain, I made my way to the C.I.A. kitchen. In the lobby, I was greeted by the professor, Chef Hinnerk von Bargen. He was a tower of a man, standing at 7 feet tall at least. He was full of energy and kindness, and after a brief greeting, he handed me a C.I.A. apron, folded up as a sort of envelope to hold a chef’s toque, a packet of papers containing the day’s recipes, and a bar of Lindt chocolate (apparently the C.I.A. has a contract with Lindt, go figure.)
I made my way into the kitchen, where I saw just under 20 classmates waiting. To my surprise, the crowd consisted primarily of middle-aged women. I, at 21 was probably the youngest and “hippest” person in the room. In fact, as I got to talking to people, I found that less than half of the people there maintained a vegetarian diet. Most of these people were just like me, looking for some new and exciting ways to incorporate vegetables into their diet.
As the chef began the demo/lecture portion of the class, he explained that he was raised on a classic German “meat and potatoes diet” while living and working at his family’s inn. He said that it was not until he went to work as a chef in Beijing that he began to see how exciting vegetable-based meals could be. He had a prolific knowledge of every vegetable on the menu--how each one should be grown, stored, and prepared, as well as which nutrients each one provides. I knew I liked him when he dismissed the raw foods movement, explaining that some foods must be cooked down before their nutrients become easily accessible to the human body.
He shared a variety of techniques, including how to create a makeshift smoker on the stove using dry spices and rice. Since some of the dough had to be made the night before, he showed us how each one was mixed, allowing us to feel the density of each type of dough.
After the demonstration, we were broken into teams of four and assigned dishes. My team was to make Mixed Grilled Vegetables, Spinach and Goat Cheese Quiche, and Ribbon Pasta with Pesto. He showed pointed us to a large table which held every ingredient that we’d need for the day’s recipes. It was far more fresh food than I’d ever seen in one kitchen. “At the end of the next two hours,” the Chef said, “every ingredient on this table should be gone. However, if you would like to experiment with any additional ingredients, please don’t hesitate to ask.”
We were each assigned a bay with an oven, grill, stove, and every pot, pan, and utensil we could possibly need. I was happy with my team’s menu. We had to make both pasta and a pie crust, both of which would be new experiences for me. The chef demonstrated how to feed pasta dough through an extruder, and then how it should be folded and cut to make perfect ribbons. He then taught us a very interesting method of keeping pie crusts flat.
He simply molded the dough to fit the pie tin, then covered the dough with a layer of plastic wrap. Then he poured dried kidney beans (any bean will do) onto the pie crust to weigh the dough down, and par-baked the crust, plastic wrap and all, for about 5-10 minutes. Once the pie crust is set, the plastic wrap can be easily lifted from the tin. Just gather the ends of the wrap to make a little sack and use it to remove the beans.
The two hours we had to cook went quickly, and soon we were plating our dishes on enormous white platters. The chef gave us some advice on how to present each dish, and tasted our food, telling us how we could perfect the flavors and textures of each dish. Finally, we tasted the fruits (or vegetables) of our labor.
The food was pretty good. It was obvious that some teams had forgotten about the salt and pepper dishes lying wrapped up at their stations, but the flavors were still all there. One group made an exceptional Thai pea soup, and another made delicious creamed swiss chard. These dishes in particular stick out in my memory, but every dish on the table brought to light an exciting way that vegetables can be cooked.
On my way out, I received a copy of the Culinary Institute’s vegetarian cookbook. I’ve been working through it eagerly, and I’m always excited to work with a vegetable I’ve never used before. Though I’m not going to give up meat, I can admit now that it doesn’t have to be a part of every meal. In the end, we humans are the great omnivores, with the ability to eat just about anything we please, so why not eat a bit of everything?
The class which I was attending was called, simply: Vegetarian Cuisine. The name brought forth images of grilled tofu and bean burgers, and made me cringe as I relived the days when I would watch my sister with pity as she tried to enjoy the different vegetarian “meals” she confined herself to. I still don’t know why she decided to turn veg-head; she never preached about healthy living or animal cruelty, but simply claimed an aversion to meat (my guess is that some PETA pamphlet-pusher got to her.) She refrained from eating meat for 4 years, and then as abruptly as she’d stopped, she began to call herself a carnivore once more.
It wasn’t only the menu that troubled me, it was the crowd that the menu was likely to attract. I must admit that I harbor some level of bias against vegetarians, or rather, vegetarian fanatics. The fanatics, in my opinion, are the ones trying to mobilize a dietary lifestyle into a “movement.” (i.e. PETA pamphlet pushers). In my experience, this subtype is made up of young “hipsters” or rebels whose allegiance to vegetarianism relies solely on whether its “in” or not.
I remember the first time I attended the Van’s Warped Tour in 2004: as my friends and I were waiting in line at the front gates, a slew of pamphlet pushing pod-people thrust their trifolds upon us. They’ve been known to show up at several large events, confronting optimistic crowds with images rotting cow carcasses and action-shots of chicken debeakings. I say to these vegetarian fanatics the same thing I say to door-to-door evangelists: I sincerely respect your personal beliefs and practices, but get off of my porch!
Despite any misgivings, I was commited to see how the C.I.A. does vegetarian cuisine, and as I was a bit early, I decided to get into the proper mood by shopping for produce at the Pearl Farmers Market, which is conveniently situated directly behind the Culinary Institute on Saturday mornings. Since I arrived just before the opening bell, I had the opportunity to scope out several stalls and find the best looking produce so I’d know where to look when the vendors began selling. I found some pristine zucchini squash and perfect little grilling onions at one stall, some bright green jalapenos at another, and at yet another stall I found some portabellas as big as my head.
Now, with veggies in my hands and on my brain, I made my way to the C.I.A. kitchen. In the lobby, I was greeted by the professor, Chef Hinnerk von Bargen. He was a tower of a man, standing at 7 feet tall at least. He was full of energy and kindness, and after a brief greeting, he handed me a C.I.A. apron, folded up as a sort of envelope to hold a chef’s toque, a packet of papers containing the day’s recipes, and a bar of Lindt chocolate (apparently the C.I.A. has a contract with Lindt, go figure.)
I made my way into the kitchen, where I saw just under 20 classmates waiting. To my surprise, the crowd consisted primarily of middle-aged women. I, at 21 was probably the youngest and “hippest” person in the room. In fact, as I got to talking to people, I found that less than half of the people there maintained a vegetarian diet. Most of these people were just like me, looking for some new and exciting ways to incorporate vegetables into their diet.
As the chef began the demo/lecture portion of the class, he explained that he was raised on a classic German “meat and potatoes diet” while living and working at his family’s inn. He said that it was not until he went to work as a chef in Beijing that he began to see how exciting vegetable-based meals could be. He had a prolific knowledge of every vegetable on the menu--how each one should be grown, stored, and prepared, as well as which nutrients each one provides. I knew I liked him when he dismissed the raw foods movement, explaining that some foods must be cooked down before their nutrients become easily accessible to the human body.
He shared a variety of techniques, including how to create a makeshift smoker on the stove using dry spices and rice. Since some of the dough had to be made the night before, he showed us how each one was mixed, allowing us to feel the density of each type of dough.
After the demonstration, we were broken into teams of four and assigned dishes. My team was to make Mixed Grilled Vegetables, Spinach and Goat Cheese Quiche, and Ribbon Pasta with Pesto. He showed pointed us to a large table which held every ingredient that we’d need for the day’s recipes. It was far more fresh food than I’d ever seen in one kitchen. “At the end of the next two hours,” the Chef said, “every ingredient on this table should be gone. However, if you would like to experiment with any additional ingredients, please don’t hesitate to ask.”
We were each assigned a bay with an oven, grill, stove, and every pot, pan, and utensil we could possibly need. I was happy with my team’s menu. We had to make both pasta and a pie crust, both of which would be new experiences for me. The chef demonstrated how to feed pasta dough through an extruder, and then how it should be folded and cut to make perfect ribbons. He then taught us a very interesting method of keeping pie crusts flat.
He simply molded the dough to fit the pie tin, then covered the dough with a layer of plastic wrap. Then he poured dried kidney beans (any bean will do) onto the pie crust to weigh the dough down, and par-baked the crust, plastic wrap and all, for about 5-10 minutes. Once the pie crust is set, the plastic wrap can be easily lifted from the tin. Just gather the ends of the wrap to make a little sack and use it to remove the beans.
The two hours we had to cook went quickly, and soon we were plating our dishes on enormous white platters. The chef gave us some advice on how to present each dish, and tasted our food, telling us how we could perfect the flavors and textures of each dish. Finally, we tasted the fruits (or vegetables) of our labor.
The food was pretty good. It was obvious that some teams had forgotten about the salt and pepper dishes lying wrapped up at their stations, but the flavors were still all there. One group made an exceptional Thai pea soup, and another made delicious creamed swiss chard. These dishes in particular stick out in my memory, but every dish on the table brought to light an exciting way that vegetables can be cooked.
On my way out, I received a copy of the Culinary Institute’s vegetarian cookbook. I’ve been working through it eagerly, and I’m always excited to work with a vegetable I’ve never used before. Though I’m not going to give up meat, I can admit now that it doesn’t have to be a part of every meal. In the end, we humans are the great omnivores, with the ability to eat just about anything we please, so why not eat a bit of everything?
Saturday, September 8, 2012
What's Driving the Global Food Crisis?
Experts predict that by the end of the year, humanity will face a global food crisis unlike any we’ve encountered before. Due to persistent droughts, which continue to sap crops and ruin harvests around the globe, the prices of vital grains such as wheat and rice are expected to skyrocket as the year comes to a close.
During a press conference in July, government officials reported that severe droughts have affected at least 88% of U.S. corn crops this year. As the U.S is currently the world’s leading producer and exporter of corn, this dramatic shortage in crop production is sure have several far-reaching consequences. While it’s safe to say that the projected food price increases are unlikely to dramatically impact the diets of most U.S. Americans, they will be devastating to the many low income peoples around the world who rely on grain imports for much of their daily sustenance.
In 2008, when droughts caused a shortage of rice and wheat in a similar scenario, the global food market went into chaos as each nation made a move to hoard huge stockpiles of grain in order to secure the needs of their own population. Russia, Ukraine, Argentina, and India halted grain exports, while in impoverished countries, such as Haiti and Egypt, the lower class became outraged and began to protest and riot in response to rising grain prices. Similar tensions are currently building around the globe, and it’s become clear that the pending global food crisis is being driven by more than just a lack of rain.
In accordance with this year’s ethanol mandates, the U.S. will use about 40% of its corn harvest to manufacture biofuels--primarily ethanol (the primary ingredient of which is corn). Considering the rate at which the USDA’s projected crop yield is dwindling, this 40% will be sure to have an enormous impact on the global corn market. However, some experts suggest that halting ethanol production would not be a comprehensive solution. Even if the U.S. were to waive its ethanol mandates, fuel companies would still stand to benefit from government incentives under the Volumetric Ethanol Excise Tax Credit, which reimburses companies 45 cents per gallon of ethanol used in gasoline production. Even without the mandates and incentives, biofuels are still far less expensive to manufacture than gasolines based on conventional oil. Fuel companies are unlikely to reduce biofuel production until it become economically prudent. Besides, our world runs on a gas engine, and a rise in fuel prices will also translate to a rise in food prices.
According to the Cattlemen’s Beef Board and the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association, it takes nearly 3.5 gallons of fuel per year to accommodate the growth of one steer. There are also several other fuel costs tied up in the processing and distribution of the beef. Due to an ever-growing global population and a rise in the middle class of developing countries such as China, the demand for beef in the global market is expected to rise significantly by 2013. Although a reduction in biofuel production could help stabilize corn prices, the rise in fuel costs would theoretically raise the cost of processing and distribution for every other food item on the market.
The UN has implored governments to refrain from banning exports, to support small farms, and to reduce biofuel production, but these short-term solutions will only tend to the immediate symptoms of a much greater underlying problem. As the global population soars towards 9 billion people, we have to face the reality that our current food and energy production methods simply aren’t sustainable. In order to feed the growing population, the agriculture industry has had to artificially boost the environment’s capacity to produce food by such methods as diverting water to irrigate normally dry fields and focusing on monoculture--the practice of growing one crop exclusively over a long period of time.
During a press conference in July, government officials reported that severe droughts have affected at least 88% of U.S. corn crops this year. As the U.S is currently the world’s leading producer and exporter of corn, this dramatic shortage in crop production is sure have several far-reaching consequences. While it’s safe to say that the projected food price increases are unlikely to dramatically impact the diets of most U.S. Americans, they will be devastating to the many low income peoples around the world who rely on grain imports for much of their daily sustenance.
In 2008, when droughts caused a shortage of rice and wheat in a similar scenario, the global food market went into chaos as each nation made a move to hoard huge stockpiles of grain in order to secure the needs of their own population. Russia, Ukraine, Argentina, and India halted grain exports, while in impoverished countries, such as Haiti and Egypt, the lower class became outraged and began to protest and riot in response to rising grain prices. Similar tensions are currently building around the globe, and it’s become clear that the pending global food crisis is being driven by more than just a lack of rain.
In accordance with this year’s ethanol mandates, the U.S. will use about 40% of its corn harvest to manufacture biofuels--primarily ethanol (the primary ingredient of which is corn). Considering the rate at which the USDA’s projected crop yield is dwindling, this 40% will be sure to have an enormous impact on the global corn market. However, some experts suggest that halting ethanol production would not be a comprehensive solution. Even if the U.S. were to waive its ethanol mandates, fuel companies would still stand to benefit from government incentives under the Volumetric Ethanol Excise Tax Credit, which reimburses companies 45 cents per gallon of ethanol used in gasoline production. Even without the mandates and incentives, biofuels are still far less expensive to manufacture than gasolines based on conventional oil. Fuel companies are unlikely to reduce biofuel production until it become economically prudent. Besides, our world runs on a gas engine, and a rise in fuel prices will also translate to a rise in food prices.
According to the Cattlemen’s Beef Board and the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association, it takes nearly 3.5 gallons of fuel per year to accommodate the growth of one steer. There are also several other fuel costs tied up in the processing and distribution of the beef. Due to an ever-growing global population and a rise in the middle class of developing countries such as China, the demand for beef in the global market is expected to rise significantly by 2013. Although a reduction in biofuel production could help stabilize corn prices, the rise in fuel costs would theoretically raise the cost of processing and distribution for every other food item on the market.
The UN has implored governments to refrain from banning exports, to support small farms, and to reduce biofuel production, but these short-term solutions will only tend to the immediate symptoms of a much greater underlying problem. As the global population soars towards 9 billion people, we have to face the reality that our current food and energy production methods simply aren’t sustainable. In order to feed the growing population, the agriculture industry has had to artificially boost the environment’s capacity to produce food by such methods as diverting water to irrigate normally dry fields and focusing on monoculture--the practice of growing one crop exclusively over a long period of time.
These practices have allowed food production to expand in the short term, which has in turn facilitated a continuous growth in the global population. It is clear, however, that soon the world’s people must convert to stable, sustainable methods of food production, as well a system of global distribution which focuses on reducing waste and getting that food to the places in the world where it is needed.
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